Paleography and Legal History Clinic, 21 – 27 April 2025, Jerusalem

From the moment I arrived in Jerusalem on Monday, I knew it was going to be an amazing week. The city itself is stunning - full of history, culture, and life. Our group was housed at the Austrian Hospice, which is located in the center of the Old City, and it offered not just a wonderful view but also a sense of peace in the midst of the busy streets of Jerusalem. After a short welcome meeting with Dr. Stephan Wendehorst, the lecturers, and the other participants, we went over the program for the week. The group bonded immediately, and that night, many of us dined and walked together, anxious to learn about the city and its past in the next few days.

The academic program began on Tuesday morning. We were given the option of taking a number of palaeography courses in Latin, German, or Jewish languages (Hebrew, Yiddish, Judeo-German). I enrolled in the Jewish languages course, which was taught by Ms. Paula Somogyi. Despite my initial doubts, I was amazed at how accessible the material became under her guidance, personal attention, and active engagement throughout. We began with the Hebrew alphabet, building up reading and writing skills along with an introduction to basic grammar. The classes, mainly held from 8:00 until 11:30 every day, were fun but mostly rewarding. The lectures concluded on Friday morning, and the weekend and afternoon were free for personal exploration and informal group activities.

Afternoons were reserved for tours. Highlights included our visit to the National Library of Israel and a tour of the Israel Museum—something that perfectly complements the program's academic topic in terms of bringing to life the region's numerous historical layers.

Another memorable part of the week was our trip to two kibbutzim: Kvuzat Yavne and Chafetz Chaim. Kvuzat Yavne - founded by members of the German Zionist youth movement who had prepared for agricultural life before emigrating to what would become Israel - welcomed us warmly with lunch, followed by a visit to the local archive and museum. As a religious-socialist commune, Kvuzat Yavne represents a unique combination of communal organization and religious principle. There, we were welcomed by Sara, a representative of the community, who provided a warm reflection on the character of the kibbutz, its contrast with the more ultra-Orthodox Chafetz Chaim, and the sense of mutual support between communities, especially in the wake of the tragic events of October 7th. Her words made a deep impression and showed how history, memory, and community remain inseparably linked within Israeli society. The visit to Chafetz Chaim - operating under a stricter religious model ("Ultra-Orthodox") - foregrounded the challenges of communal life where more orthodox gender roles and religious requirements are followed. These contrasting models of communal life were not only sociologically and culturally fascinating but also reflective of the complex legal, religious, and social pluralism of Israel, a subject of particular interest to international and comparative law.

Following the kibbutz visits, we had the opportunity to attend an interesting lecture by Hofrat Univ.-Doz. Dr. Erwin A. Schmidl, who gave a historical overview of the role of Jews in the Austrian military. His lecture provided a captivating insight into how Jewish identity and state service historically intersected - a theme that touched upon many of the broader questions to which we had been exposed throughout the week, especially those in relation to identity, loyalty, and legal status in multi-ethnic or multi-religious states.

As an international law student, I found these encounters particularly valuable. They allowed me to understand how different legal cultures and social orders coexist within a single national system. Understanding how religious and national groups in imperial structures throughout history managed their autonomy within larger legal and political systems is invaluable in studying topics like minority rights, legal pluralism, or post-conflict governance. This programme offered a living example of law working not just in texts and institutions, but also in communal existence.

After the academic side of the program concluded, I had the opportunity to travel to Tel Aviv with a few of the other participants. These non-official excursions gave us space for reflection, personal conversation, and further exploration of the region - all of which enriched the week even further.

I left Jerusalem not only with new academic skills and friends but also with a deeper appreciation of the region's cultural and legal complexities—understandings that I am confident will remain with me as I continue my career in international law.

Nesta Ezeh